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| Caerfai Bay, Pembrokeshire, Wales |
As climbing locations go, this isn't too shabby.
Caerfai Bay is located by St. Davids in Pembrokeshire. The bay has a south-facing beach, surrounded by cliffs so is an utter suntrap. There is limited parking above the bay, and the crag is located on the East side of the bay, reached by following the coastal path south east for five minutes, to a sharp left hand bend near the bay's entrance. There is then an abseil or scramble down.
The crag is slabby sandstone (hard), tidal and currently has 26 trad climbs listed - graded Diff to E4 6a. It is fair to say some of the routes are a little overgraded, but there is a great variety there, within a small location, for climbers of moderate to good ability to work on.
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| Not putting enough gear in, White Wall (HS 4b) |
It is also home to 'Armorican' - an HVS 5a that has been downgraded to a VS 4c - and is listed as one of the UK's Top 100 VS routes, is in the Rockfax Pembroke Top 50 and also known as one of the best UK slab climbs. Either judge the tides correctly or set up a hanging belay!
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| Armorican (VS 4c) |
Rhydian and I visited a few weeks ago, and were blessed with utterly glorious weather and enjoyed a swim out to the small island after a great days climbing.
If you live in the UK and love climbing, and haven't visited Pembrokeshire.... WHY NOT?
There are literally thousands of climbs at 136 crags in an utterly gorgeous location. Buy a guide book, find a local to take you out, hell... just get yourself there and climb.
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