Crag of the Week

Three Cliffs Bay, Gower, South Wales

This stunning South Facing, easy-angled limestone slab is another great location to introduce your friends and clients to outdoor and lead climbing.

As a Mum, it's also proved an ideal location for trying to get a few climbs in with friends, whilst also being a safe beach for my daughter to play on... before the tide comes in!

As with my previous Crag of the Week, Tryfan Fach, the majority of routes here are Diff, with a lone E4 6c (The Steal) chucked in between a few popular VS routes - Arch Slab, Under Milk Wood and Scavenger, which due to its popularity is becoming a bit polished but is well protected. There seems to be a love/hate relationship with Under Milk Wood which involves a tight squeeze through a 'cave' at the top to break through to daylight and top out. Enjoyment of this route seems dependant on your size! The E4 seems to be very under climbed, probably due to the lack of any other highly graded routes to tackle whilst your there!

When working here with children or clients, there is a great Mod/scramble up to above the arch which offers a great abseil experience for the kids. Another fun opportunity for those who you feel capable of completing it, while getting to practise your MIC skills, is to lead your group on a confidence rope over the 'pinnacles' seen above that give Three Cliffs it's name.

There is various places to park at the top on the cliffs (some charge) and it's a pleasant 15 min walk in. Be sure to check the tide times before heading down!

This is about a child friendly as crags come, with a gorgeous stretch of sand to play on, and extensive rock pools and little coves to explore. There is also the remains of Pennard Castle within walking distance.

So whether you are looking for a family holiday location where you can also indulge your hobby, or whether you are looking for new crags to take your clients to - Three Cliffs Bay is well worth your time.

Crag of the Week

Tryfan Fach (Little Tryfan), Gwynedd, North Wales

'Base Camp' - can think of worse views to wake up to. 

Instructors take note! This crag is an absolute gem for introducing groups and individuals to outdoor and lead trad climbing. Just as I was myself.

My very first time here started in the campsite situated at the base of Tryfan, just a short walk from the crag. We arrived in the middle of the night with the temperatures dipping to -10 C. (You can also park at this campsite for a small charge, even if not camping).

Being a wintery January morning we climbed in gloves and B2/B3's. This was a first for me, so I was glad the crag was full to bursting with low grade routes for me to attempt my first lead in such 'cumbersome' climbing gear.

On arriving at the crag, you are greeted with a wonderful sweep of Rhyolite (a common volcanic rock), and usually other climbers. It's amenable angled face is littered with lovely cracks, great holds and an abundance of gear placement. Along with its easy 10min walk in from the car park, it's no wonder this location is so popular. The crag boasts over 20 climbs, graded from Moderate to VS 4c, but the majority here are graded at Diff.

My first lead - Crack 2 (Diff). Freezing Fun

Featured in the Rockfax Top 50 North Wales climb is Little Tryfan Arete - a grade 3 scramble/Moderate climb which can be completed in 1 or 2 pitches.

Please be aware, if you are climbing at VD/Severe or above this really won't float your boat. Don't waste your time and make your way to the abundance of other crags North Wales has to offer - more of which I will feature soon - including Milestone Buttress, just around the corner from this crag.

But if you are new to this climbing malarky, have never climbed outside before, or never had a taste of lead trad climbing - grab yourself someone who knows what they are doing and make it happen.

Crag of the Week

Craig Caerfai, Pembrokeshire, Wales

Caerfai Bay, Pembrokeshire, Wales

As climbing locations go, this isn't too shabby.

Caerfai Bay is located by St. Davids in Pembrokeshire. The bay has a south-facing beach, surrounded by cliffs so is an utter suntrap. There is limited parking above the bay, and the crag is located on the East side of the bay, reached by following the coastal path south east for five minutes, to a sharp left hand bend near the bay's entrance. There is then an abseil or scramble down.

The crag is slabby sandstone (hard), tidal and currently has 26 trad climbs listed - graded Diff to E4 6a. It is fair to say some of the routes are a little overgraded, but there is a great variety there, within a small location, for climbers of moderate to good ability to work on.

Not putting enough gear in, White Wall (HS 4b)

It is also home to 'Armorican' - an HVS 5a that has been downgraded to a VS 4c - and is listed as one of the UK's Top 100 VS routes, is in the Rockfax Pembroke Top 50 and also known as one of the best UK slab climbs. Either judge the tides correctly or set up a hanging belay!

Armorican (VS 4c)

Rhydian and I visited a few weeks ago, and were blessed with utterly glorious weather and enjoyed a swim out to the small island after a great days climbing.

If you live in the UK and love climbing, and haven't visited Pembrokeshire.... WHY NOT?

There are literally thousands of climbs at 136 crags in an utterly gorgeous location. Buy a guide book, find a local to take you out, hell... just get yourself there and climb.