Showing posts with label beach. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beach. Show all posts

Monday, 22 August 2011

Crag of the Week

Three Cliffs Bay, Gower, South Wales


This stunning South Facing, easy-angled limestone slab is another great location to introduce your friends and clients to outdoor and lead climbing.

As a Mum, it's also proved an ideal location for trying to get a few climbs in with friends, whilst also being a safe beach for my daughter to play on... before the tide comes in!

As with my previous Crag of the Week, Tryfan Fach, the majority of routes here are Diff, with a lone E4 6c (The Steal) chucked in between a few popular VS routes - Arch Slab, Under Milk Wood and Scavenger, which due to its popularity is becoming a bit polished but is well protected. There seems to be a love/hate relationship with Under Milk Wood which involves a tight squeeze through a 'cave' at the top to break through to daylight and top out. Enjoyment of this route seems dependant on your size! The E4 seems to be very under climbed, probably due to the lack of any other highly graded routes to tackle whilst your there!

When working here with children or clients, there is a great Mod/scramble up to above the arch which offers a great abseil experience for the kids. Another fun opportunity for those who you feel capable of completing it, while getting to practise your MIC skills, is to lead your group on a confidence rope over the 'pinnacles' seen above that give Three Cliffs it's name.

There is various places to park at the top on the cliffs (some charge) and it's a pleasant 15 min walk in. Be sure to check the tide times before heading down!

This is about a child friendly as crags come, with a gorgeous stretch of sand to play on, and extensive rock pools and little coves to explore. There is also the remains of Pennard Castle within walking distance.

So whether you are looking for a family holiday location where you can also indulge your hobby, or whether you are looking for new crags to take your clients to - Three Cliffs Bay is well worth your time.

Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Crag of the Week

Craig Caerfai, Pembrokeshire, Wales

Caerfai Bay, Pembrokeshire, Wales

As climbing locations go, this isn't too shabby.

Caerfai Bay is located by St. Davids in Pembrokeshire. The bay has a south-facing beach, surrounded by cliffs so is an utter suntrap. There is limited parking above the bay, and the crag is located on the East side of the bay, reached by following the coastal path south east for five minutes, to a sharp left hand bend near the bay's entrance. There is then an abseil or scramble down.

The crag is slabby sandstone (hard), tidal and currently has 26 trad climbs listed - graded Diff to E4 6a. It is fair to say some of the routes are a little overgraded, but there is a great variety there, within a small location, for climbers of moderate to good ability to work on.

Not putting enough gear in, White Wall (HS 4b)
It is also home to 'Armorican' - an HVS 5a that has been downgraded to a VS 4c - and is listed as one of the UK's Top 100 VS routes, is in the Rockfax Pembroke Top 50 and also known as one of the best UK slab climbs. Either judge the tides correctly or set up a hanging belay!

Armorican (VS 4c)
Rhydian and I visited a few weeks ago, and were blessed with utterly glorious weather and enjoyed a swim out to the small island after a great days climbing.

If you live in the UK and love climbing, and haven't visited Pembrokeshire.... WHY NOT?
There are literally thousands of climbs at 136 crags in an utterly gorgeous location. Buy a guide book, find a local to take you out, hell... just get yourself there and climb.